Sunday, December 11, 2011

The UAE Turns Forty (December 2nd, 2011)…


Because of this anniversary, this is a semi-tribute blog. I had originally started writing this on November 31st but fell quite ill and then had a host of issues following that, which is why this is up so late.

What I realised when covering the National Day celebrations is that so many people are unaware of the UAE’s pearl diving history, that not many people know the significance of Bani Yas and that very few people are aware of the trucial states.

So I thought I’d put that right.

Before I do, I must stress, there are some excellent books on this subject (Look up Chris Davidson or Jim Krane) my warblings are a very condensed form of history but will possibly interest you enough to make you want to look it all up yourself.

Sheikh Zayed Mosque at night
Bani Yas: This was the UAE’s biggest tribe, made up of numerous divisions. They were a section originally based in Liwa-where the annual date festival is held, you must check it out- and this section of the tribe gave rise to the Al Nahyan’s –Abu Dhabi’s ruling family. Bani Yas was quite well-regarded across Arabia for both its military prowess and also because it was such a large tribe. What I admire most about Bani Yas is that it gave rise to quite a big number of noble families including the Maktoums who now rule Dubai, but I am also impressed by the love of art, literature and culture that its members promote and that is very evident across the country to this day. The Sheikh Zayed Mosque exemplifies this. Look at my amazing pictures of this stunning piece of architecture (and try not to steal them without crediting please!)



Light show at Sheikh Zayed Mosque
Trucial States: Before the UAE started in 1971, there was already a lot of trade going on in Dubai (which had a tiny little port, with just one bulb that had to be kept on all night, presumably so ships knew they were close to land). The rulers of Dubai had a very long-sighted vision and had signed a deal to be under the protection of Britain. It also offered a tax exemption to foreign businessmen. The city itself was dusty with little mud huts that served its mainly-Bedouin population. People from across the water had come to Dubai to trade and many ended up settling there.

Oil had been discovered around 30 years prior to the country’s independence and it was a definite blessing-more so than in other places. This was since the UAE had long relied on pearl diving for its income-in every one thousand or so oysters, divers would find a pearl. However, a short while before oil as discovered in the Emirates, cultured pearls, which could be produced in the thousands with a definite shape started to become all the rage. Suddenly, the UAE could no longer compete with the international market of cultured pearls.

The Trucial states originally included Qatar and Bahrain and in 1972, after the UK decided to end its treaty with the 7 Trucial Sheikhdoms, the rulers decided to form their own state. Since an agreement could not be reached with these two Sheikhdoms in 1971, 6 emirates went on to form the UAE and Bahrain and Qatar became independent states. The seventh emirate, Ras Al Khaimah joined in 1972.

Random Facts: Things I find quite interesting are that even though the currency of the dirham was introduced in 1973, Indian traders and workers here were still allowed to buy and sell things in rupees (I’m not if this was the case for other currencies) and the previous currency had been called the Gulf Rupee. As a result, in parts of Deira and Jumeirah, if you meet someone who’s been here for over thirty years, they’ll still quote you prices calling the currency ‘Rupee’ instead of dirham, which is confusing, but quaint.

Another weirdness (in my opinion) is that Sharjah (yes, Sharjah!!!) had the only functioning airstrip, built by the British in 1939, so for a long time, this is where commercial flights landed-after much discomfort of travelling from Bahrain. Chris Davidson says in his book that this meant flights to Sharjah were few and far between and so Sheikh Rashid told his majlis that an airport was really needed in Dubai. They couldn’t see why it was needed, and let's forget the tourism and travel aspect for a second…but can you imagine a world without Dubai Duty free?

The Islands- View from the Burj Khalifa
It’s incredibly impressive what the UAE has done in the short time its been around. To illustrate; an aunt who’s been married for some time recently said to me that she’s asked her husband to renovate their home and he’s dawdled over the matter until weeks became months which became years. Fifteen years later she is now able to say to him we still haven’t renovated our house and the UAE’s managed to build up an entire country in that time. I don’t think my uncle was impressed.


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