Friday, July 20, 2012

Ramadan in the UAE






When I first visited the UAE, I was quite surprised to find that nobody is allowed to eat in public during Ramadan fasting hours, except very small children. In some cases, people are even fined. However this is only in very extreme cases where people had been ignoring the warnings for a while. This was a strange concept to me, having grown up in the ‘West’ as they call it here, I was always taught that people eating and drinking around you while you were fasting was good for you, to help remind you of the sacrifice that you were making.

That really is what Ramadan is all about to me, sacrifice. Discipline. Patience.

Virtues, I have very little of when I’m not fasting.

There’s so much about Ramadan in the UAE that makes it quite a beautiful experience (even if people do drive worse than normal)

For starters, most companies will offer employees lesser working hours- because of a strict government rule that every company should only let their employees work 6 hours a day (Muslim or non-Muslim) and if they work over that, there should be hours in lieu or overtime pay.

I know some places that don’t give this option to their employees who aren’t Muslim, and think it’s terribly unfair, especially since this is one way of creating a community atmosphere. (This year, I wonder if I should let the Minister of Economy know the names of these places so he can send out an inspection team?)

What I find quite unique about the UAE than elsewhere is many non-Muslims seem to take the opportunity in Ramadan to fast. I met an American woman in my first year here, who does it every Ramadan, because she likes that it makes her concentrate on being a better person. I haven’t come across this embracing of culture anywhere else.

Iftar tents were a novel concept to me before I arrived, I had no idea what to expect, turns out they are usually extremely lavish buffets, open from the time the fast ends at sunset for the iftar for about 2-3 hours. The tent is then cleaned up and tables are laid again, and this now becomes a suhoor (morning meal) tent, which starts around 10pm.

Sunset in Abu Dhabi
This year, I am going to try to avoid the tents, because they can be far too extravagant, and the wastage is quite upsetting. As far as I understand it from the Dubai Municipality, the hotels have no choice but to throw away their excess food because of a rule by the Food Safety Authority to prevent food poisoning. This is also why the excess food can’t be transported to labour camps, since a lot of them are far out and this will not be allowed by the FSA. I am trying to find a hotel that will tie up with a bus company to transport labourers to the hotels to take part in the iftar, so that the food isn’t wasted. Because of the snobbery involved, hotels can perhaps set up a male-only tent for labourers, taxi drivers and anyone who cannot afford to eat that day. I’ve suggested the idea to my company as well to help get it moving. Let’s see what happens.

During Ramadan, some stores open later than others to suit people’s food and prayer times, which adds to the festive feel in the month, and restaurant timings are all over the place. Some open for lunch, quite a few don’t. I believe @GeordieArmani has a list of places that are open for lunch on her blog so check that out.

During Ramadan, in the malls, there are numerous stalls set up by the Awqaf or Charitable Affairs Authority where you can buy tickets starting at 5 dirhams going up to 50 dirhams where you can donate money, food, books to those in need.

For Muslims, its so beautiful to pray taraweeh here (90 minute long prayers), the atmosphere is just lovely, you get a proper community feel. One of the cool things that happens is famous visiting Imams, last year we had Saudi imams like Imam Sudais, Shuraim and Abu Bakr Shatri leading prayers at the Blue Mosque (The Turkish one) in Jumeirah, which was very exciting. Tahajjud prayers are also held here.

The mosque is also a good place to meet members of the community who can suggest people in need of Zakah, which most people tend to give out just before Eid Al Fitr.

Sheikh Zayed Mosque Abu Dhabi
Eid is a public holiday in the UAE and is a celebration of the end of the month of fasting and the hope that people have learnt lessons of virtue that they will carry out for the entire year.

Traditionally, parents, grandparents or any adult that meets children will give them a small monetary token (In the UAE, I believe its about 20 dirhams). Nowadays people give out Eid gifts, but the whole point is to not get sucked into capitalism so money is better.

Back home we used to take plates of goodies (sweetmeats, dates etc) to neighbours and friends on Eid day. Here most people don’t know their neighbours, I certainly don’t know mine, and am not sure how they would react to this. If I’m in the UAE for Eid, I’ll do it and let you know.

Mainly the month is about being with family and friends, and trying to be good. People are more tired during Ramadan because of extra prayers and lots of meetings with friends and family, and most organisations are quite understanding of this.

A typical working day in the life of a Muslim this Ramadan could be as follows (The timings change every day, as the day gets shorter)

3.15 am- Breakfast
4.00 am-stop eating and get ready for Morning Prayer
4.10 am- Morning Prayer (called Fajr)
4.20am- back to bed or pray
8.00am- work
There are two prayers during work hours called Dhuhr and ‘Asr
4.00pm- home
4.00-6- with family, Reading Quraan
Sunset in Dubai
7.10 pm- break the fast
7.20 pm- prayer (called Maghreb)
8.30 pm- prayer (called Isha)
8.35 pm- long evening Ramadan prayer called Taraweeh
10.00pm- Family/ recreational time
2.00 am- Tahajjud prayers
3.15 am- Breakfast

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding in Dubai hosts a traditional Iftar every evening for a small fee. People are required to book ahead because it gets quite full, and they are treated to a full Emirati/ Muslim experience, which includes breaking the fast with the traditional dates and water, watching as fasting people say their prayers, taking a tour of the Bastakiya area and a Q n A session where volunteers will answer anything you ask them about the UAE. For more information, contact 04 353 6666